Uncover Matera's Hidden Gem: San Giovanni Vecchio's Stunning Residences
Uncover Matera's Hidden Gem: San Giovanni Vecchio - A Review That's a Little Less "Perfect" (And a Lot More Real)
Alright, buckle up buttercups, because we're diving headfirst into San Giovanni Vecchio in Matera. Forget those perfectly curated travel blogs – this is my experience, in all its glorious imperfection. And let me tell you, it was a trip. A genuinely, deeply wonderful trip, but not without its… ahem… character.
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First Impressions & The "Wow" Factor (or Lack Thereof… Initially)
Landing in Matera is like stepping onto another planet. The Sassi, those ancient cave dwellings, are breathtaking. Seriously, jaw-droppingly beautiful. So, naturally, I had sky-high expectations for San Giovanni Vecchio. The website photos? Stunning. Promises of a "reimagined" cave experience? Sold!
Getting there? That was a bit of a challenge. (Getting anywhere in Matera with luggage is an adventure, let's be real). The location is, as they say, "strategically placed" – which translates to "a bit of a hike." Accessibility: While the hotel itself is nestled within the Sassi, and thus, inherently challenging, they do their best. Elevator access existed in the building to reach a certain height, which was good for the older guests. They offer luggage assistance and, once you're in the hotel, things are, well, a lot smoother. However, navigating the cobbled streets outside with a suitcase… let's just say my biceps got a workout. Wheelchair accessible? I didn’t see a clear path into the building. And that’s a problem, I feel.
Checking in was a breeze, thanks to the Contactless check-in/out option and the cheerful staff. The 24-hour front desk is a major plus, especially after a long travel day. The Hotel chain and the excellent reputation that comes with it were also reasons for excitement. My room, a "Cave Suite" (of course), was a revelation.
The Room: My Cave Kingdom (and All Its Quirks)
Okay, the room… talk about atmosphere! Raw, beautiful stone walls, those signature Matera cave vibes, and luxurious touches – like plush bathrobes and slippers. The air conditioning was blessed because, my god, it got hot. The blackout curtains were a godsend for sleeping in after a night of Matera magic. Internet access – wireless was excellent. They actually provide free Wi-Fi in all rooms! which really surprised me. And the Internet access – LAN was there if you wanted it.
But… (and there's always a but), the layout was a bit, shall we say, "rustic." The bathroom?! Gorgeous, unique, but… a bit challenging to navigate in the middle of the night after one too many glasses of local wine. (More on that later…) The shower was divine, though! Separate shower/bathtub - yes! And the toiletries were lovely. There were also simple stuff like mirror, closet, safe box, desk, coffee/tea maker, and sofa. So all in all, very good.
Rooms Not So Great:
There were some things missing though. There was no additional toilet. The alarm clock was nowhere in sight, yet they send a wake-up service. Also, it didn't quite have an exterior corridor, making it a bit closed off. There was no interconnecting room(s) available, in case you need to speak to the kids. Also the window that opens was a bit small.
Drinking, Dining, and Snacking: Fueling the Adventure (and Maybe Slightly Overdoing It)
Now, the food… that's where San Giovanni Vecchio truly shines. The breakfast [buffet] was a masterpiece of Italian deliciousness: fresh pastries, local cheeses, crispy prosciutto. They also have an Asian breakfast, but I'm an Italian food purist. The A la carte in restaurant food was also delicious. I highly suggest the chef's specials. And the coffee/tea in restaurant? Perfection.
Restaurants – Yes! And the food was of a higher quality than expected. They had a Vegetarian restaurant and a Western cuisine in restaurant, and, well… they were very good. They even did a buffet in restaurant. They also had a Poolside bar and a Snack bar. So all good.
The bar was a great place for a pre-dinner aperitivo. They even have a Happy hour! And a great selection of bottle of water. No coffee shop nearby, but I'm ok with that. Their desserts in restaurant was amazing. And the juice, was amazing.
The room service [24-hour] was also a lifesaver after I'd spent the day exploring and was too lazy to change out of my pajamas. And the Salad in restaurant and Soup in restaurant were also amazing. I would say everything's pretty good!
Things to Do (and Ways to Relax): From Cave Exploration to Spa Indulgence
Okay, let's talk fun. Matera itself is a playground. Seriously, wander around the Sassi, get lost in the winding streets, and soak up the history. This place has a ton of Things to do.
But back at San Giovanni Vecchio, they offer some serious R&R. The Spa is a must! Pure bliss. They have a Pool with view, which is stunning. Body scrub and Body wrap? Yes, again yes! And the Sauna, Steamroom, and Spa/sauna? Heavenly! The Swimming pool was stunning. I unfortunately didn't use the Fitness center, but I can only assume it was great. They also have a Foot bath.
Beyond the Basics: Services and Conveniences (and a Few Imperfections)
The Services and conveniences were mostly spot-on. The Daily housekeeping kept the place immaculate. They gave Free bottled water and essentials condiments. The concierge was super helpful. The food delivery, dry cleaning, and laundry service were all useful. They also had a Gift/souvenir shop.
Services and Conveniences Missing:
They had a Cash withdrawal, but no Convenience store. The Currency exchange was missing, but not bad.They have a Car park [free of charge], but no Car power charging station. No babysitting service or Kids meal. They don't have a convenience shop. No On-site event hosting.
Cleanliness and Safety: A Pandemic-Era Perspective
Look, let's be real, we're all a bit hyper-aware of cleanliness these days. San Giovanni Vecchio takes Cleanliness and safety seriously. Plenty of Hand sanitizer are available. They use Daily disinfection in common areas and Anti-viral cleaning products. And Staff trained in safety protocol were all-around the property.
Cleanliness and Safety Missing:
They have Individually-wrapped food options and Physical distancing of at least 1 meter. Unfortunately, no Room sanitization opt-out available. I would've loved to have seen this.
For the Kids:
Not much. They had Family/child-friendly rooms, but not much else. No Kids facilities, or Babysitting service.
Getting Around:
They do offer Airport transfer, which is handy. They don't have access to a Car power charging station or Bicycle parking.
The Little Annoyances (Because No Place is Perfect!)
Okay, honesty hour. There were a few minor hiccups. The lighting in the room could be a bit dim at times. The Wi-Fi, while generally good, occasionally wavered. And remembering to pack a travel adapter for the Italian plugs… my bad.
The Verdict: Should You Go?
Absolutely. Without a doubt. San Giovanni Vecchio isn't perfect, and that's part of its charm. It's a truly unique experience, a chance to immerse yourself in the magic of Matera in style. The location, the cave experience, the food, the spa – all combine to create a trip you won't soon forget.
Final Thoughts (and a Bit of a Rambling Conclusion)
I left San Giovanni Vecchio feeling refreshed, rejuvenated, and slightly (okay, very) tipsy from all that amazing local wine. Matera itself? It's a place that stays with you. Its beauty is raw, its history palpable. And San Giovanni Vecchio? It's the
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Okay, buckle up Buttercup, because this itinerary for San Giovanni Vecchio in Matera, Italy, is about to get… well, real. Forget the perfectly curated Instagram grid of highlights. This is the raw, unfiltered diary of yours truly, stumbling through this ancient marvel. Consider this your slightly chaotic, possibly wine-fueled, and definitely opinionated guide.
Subject: Operation: San Giovanni Vecchio or Bust (and maybe some pasta explosions)
Day 1: Arrival & Stone-Cold Stunned (Literally, the stone is cold)
Time: 10:00 AM (ish… Italian time is flexible, right?)
Action: Arrive at Bari Airport (BRI). The flight? Delayed. Of course. My luggage? Apparently, it’s decided to take a scenic tour of Frankfurt. Cue the existential dread.
Transportation: Train to Matera. Okay, now this is romantic! Until you realize navigating Italian train stations feeling like a lost pigeon. The sheer amount of hand gestures involved in finding the right platform… I swear, I understood more of the train schedule with Google Translate!
Reaction: Finally reach Matera. The Sassi… wow. Just… wow. Pictures seriously don't do this place justice. Like, you see photos and think, "Oh, cute caves." No. This is a whole city carved into stone. It's humbling. And a little terrifying, like you've accidentally stumbled into a Game of Thrones set (minus the dragons, thankfully). I stood there gawking for a solid fifteen minutes. Lost my jaw to the ground, pretty much.
Time: 1:00 PM (hunger pangs hitting hard)
Action: Check into Residenza San Giovanni Vecchio. The room? Charming as hell. Old stone walls, a tiny balcony… feels like I'm living in a fairy tale! Except…the Wi-Fi is about as reliable as my ability to resist gelato.
Reaction: Unpack? Nah. First, I need to find FOOD. The quest for sustenance commenced.
Time: 2:00 PM
Action: Lunch at… (Insert Name of Restaurant Here, Later!). Found a tiny trattoria that smelled of garlic and promises. The pasta? Oh. My. God. Orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage. Forget all the fancy Michelin star places, give me this every single day.
Reaction: Ate the entire plate. Twice. The waiter, an old Italian gentleman with eyes that could melt glaciers, just smiled and poured more wine. (He may have also flirted with me a little, bless his heart).
Time: 4:00 PM
Action: Exploring San Giovanni Vecchio. Wandering the narrow alleyways, getting hopelessly lost (in a good way). The light… oh, the light! Golden hour in Matera is something else.
Reaction: I almost fell into a well. Twice. Pay attention, people! Also, kept snapping photos of EVERYTHING. Like, a crazy person with a camera.
Observation: Seriously, I'm worried about the structural integrity of some of these buildings. Beautiful, but ancient. I bet these walls have seen some things. Also, cobblestone streets are evil in heels. Note to self: sensible shoes are a non-negotiable.
Time: 7:00 PM
Action: Pre-dinner drinks at a bar perched on the edge of the Sassi. Aperol Spritz in hand, watching the sunset paint the stone city in shades of orange and purple.
Reaction: Pure bliss. Life is good. At this moment.
Day 2: Cave Dwelling & Emotional Overload (Plus, a Pasta Disaster)
Time: 9:00 AM (ish… still battling the gelato sugar rush)
Action: Guided tour of the Sassi. Finally learning the history! Turns out, people lived in these caves for thousands of years. Talk about resilience!
Reaction: Seriously impressed. But also a little claustrophobic. And, I confess, I got a tiny bit emotional imagining the lives of people who lived here, dealing with incredible hardships. The tour guide, a Materan native with a thick accent, looked at me strangely when I started tearing up at the sight of a donkey stable. “E molto commovente, si?” he asked, with a dubious expression… I think I might be more sensitive than I realized.
Time: 12:00 PM.
Action: Lunch! At a place (let's call it "Pasta Paradise") recommended by the extremely flirty waiter from yesterday. Ordered a cacio e pepe. Easy, right?!
Reaction: Disaster. Utter, pasta-sauce-splattered disaster! I made the sauce. Or tried to make the sauce. It clumped. The cheese congealed. It was a culinary crime scene. Cacio e pepe is apparently harder than the guide told me. I'm pretty sure the nonna in the kitchen was judging me.
Time: 2:00 PM:
Action: Visit a rock church. So ancient and mysterious. The atmosphere was quite, and peaceful.
Reaction: The church was so serene. I needed that after the pasta incident.
Time: 6:00 PM
Action: Cooking class! We're going to attempt pasta from scratch and redeem myself after the lunch debacle !
Reaction:
- First hour: Excitement! I'm going to be a pasta goddess!
- Second hour: Uh oh. My dough is too dry. The others are better. I'm still mixing.
- Third hour: Success! We cooked our own pasta, but, it was not ready for a Michelin star.
- Fourth hour: I'm exhausted, but, I'm not a failure. They really do live well in Italy, the food is amazing.
Day 3: A Bit of a Hike, Bit More Wine, and Goodbye (Sob!)
Time: 9:00 AM
Action: Hike through the Murgia Park. The views from the other side of the ravine are incredible.
Reaction: My legs are burning, my lungs are on fire, but the feeling of accomplishment is even greater! Matera is even more beautiful from over here.
Observation: I should have packed water, and, maybe, fewer Aperol Spritzes the night before. Note to self: plan ahead.
Time: 12:00 PM
Action: Farewell lunch at a place with a rooftop terrace overlooking the Sassi.
Reaction: Staring at the views, drinking a glass of red wine. I am not ready to leave.
Time: 2:00 PM
Action: Souvenir shopping (attempting to restrain myself from buying EVERYTHING).
Reaction: The handmade ceramics are gorgeous. I might have… (whispers)… bought a few things.
Time: 4:00 PM
Action: Train station. The dreaded moment.
Reaction: Bye Matera. This place captured my heart. I want to live here. The history, the food, the people… it's all so incredible. I'll be back.
Final Thoughts:
Matera, you beautiful, chaotic, stone-cold heartbreaker. I came, I saw, I got gloriously lost (and maybe slightly tipsy), and I fell madly in love. You're a place that gets under your skin, a place you'll never forget. And yes, despite the pasta incident and the emotional outbursts, I regret nothing. Except maybe not booking a longer trip. Seriously, Italy, you win. Again.
Ciao for now, Matera! Until next time… (and hopefully, my luggage will arrive before then).
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Uncovering Matera's Secret: Those Jaw-Dropping Residences of San Giovanni Vecchio (And My Messy Opinions About It)
Okay, spill the tea: What *actually* is San Giovanni Vecchio? You know, for dummies like me...
Alright, alright, settle down, drama queen. San Giovanni Vecchio is basically this *hidden* cluster of cave dwellings – the Sassi di Matera, which are already kinda the secret (though not anymore, since they're all over Instagram). But this particular pocket? It's where the cool kids *used* to (and still kinda do, in a renovated, fancy way) live. Think: ancient, carved-into-the-rock houses, all jumbled together like a bad game of Jenga. Think also: a sense of "Whoa, how did anyone live like this?!" (Answer: Not easily, probably. But hey, history!)
Is it *really* that "stunning" everyone raves about? Because, honestly, I'm skeptical.
Stunning? Look, I’m a hard sell, okay? I've seen *stuff*. But yeah, it *is* pretty darn impressive. It’s the sheer scale of it all. You're walking along, thinking, "Meh, another cave," and then BAM! A whole freaking *village* opens up before you. The way the light hits the stone... it's different throughout the day. Mornings feel ancient and quiet, afternoons are all sun-drenched gold, and evenings… well, they're just magical. I almost cried seeing the sunset illuminate a particular archway. Okay, I *did* cry. Don't judge; it was gorgeous. (And I blame the wine.)
So, you're saying its Instagram-worthy? Please tell me you have some good shots.
Hah! Instagram-worthy? Lady, it practically *begs* to be photographed. My phone is currently groaning under the weight of a zillion pictures. You know, the ones where you try to pretend you're a sophisticated travel blogger even though you’re really just a sweaty tourist trying to avoid tripping on uneven cobblestones? Yeah, *those*. I actually had a moment of existential dread trying to decide which filter to use on a photo of an ancient cistern. First world problems, I tell ya. I did get a *stunning* shot of a door, though, and I'm not sharing it, its for me.
Can you actually *stay* in these residences? And is it, like, comfortable, or is it back-breaking medieval living?
Yes and yes! You *can* stay in them. And yes, it can be both. There are hotels carved into the rock, and they're… well, they range. Some are luxuriously modern with all the bells and whistles (think heated floors, private plunge pools – the works). Others are more… “authentically rustic.” I stayed in one that was described as "charming." Let's just say the charm wore off around 3 AM when I discovered the "authentic" thin walls meant I could hear everything the couple next door were doing. *Everything*. Lesson learned: read the reviews VERY carefully. And maybe pack earplugs. Still, it was unforgettable, and I'll always cherish the experience... (even that *one* night).
Is it expensive? Because my bank account is currently weeping.
Look, let's be real: Matera isn't *cheap*. The prices vary wildly. You can find hostels, which are generally budget-friendly BUT you have to share with others. There are also upscale hotels that'll make your wallet whimper. The food itself is amazing and can be affordable. The entire experience, though? It's worth saving up for. Think of it as an investment in your sanity, your Instagram feed, and the memories you'll make. Also, plan your trip off season if you can, it’ll help.
What's the best time to visit? I hate crowds more than I hate overpriced gelato.
Haha, I hear you on the gelato front. Avoid summer at all costs. Seriously. The heat can be brutal, and the crowds are insane. Shoulder seasons – spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) – are ideal. The weather is lovely, and you'll have a *fighting* chance of actually enjoying the place without being jostled by hordes of tourists. Plus, the light is just *magnificent* then. Plus, if you get a nice day, then you can also relax a little more and enjoy the views.
Okay, so the history… what’s the lowdown? Did people *really* live in these caves?
Yes, YES they did! And it's a heck of a history. Think pre-historic settlements to the present day! People were living in the Sassi di Matera for *thousands* of years, and it got rough. The conditions were incredibly basic, and poverty was rampant. Forget running water and modern plumbing... they had it tough! Then there was the whole "eviction" period in the mid-20th century, followed by a revitalization project. It's a complex story, and I really recommend you read up on it before you go. It makes you appreciate and respect the experience all the more! It's a reminder for people, and me, that things can get better.
I'm clumsy. Are the Sassi, and San Giovanni Vecchio specifically, easy to navigate?
Hahaha! This is a great question! I have a confession to make. I'm also a bit clumsy. I spent a considerable amount of time staring at the ground. The streets are cobbled, super uneven, and there are steps EVERYWHERE. Like, *everywhere*. Wear good shoes, preferably with ankle support if your balance is as questionable as mine. I took a tumble or two (or three… or maybe more, I’m not counting.) Remember to look up, though! You'll miss all the amazing views if you don't. Also, maybe consider travel insurance that can cover the inevitable broken ankle that you will get.
What should I pack? Beyond the obvious "comfortable shoes" thing?
Okay, so comfortable shoes are essential. Also, layers! The weather can shift drastically. It can be scorching hot during the day and chilly at night. A good sun hat is a lifesaver. Some kind of reusable water bottle. And don't forget your camera. You'll want to document every sunrise, every archway, every charming little detail. Also, pack a small first-aid kit. Blisters, scrapes, the occasional clumsy fall… it happens. And, most importantly: pack a sense of adventureHotel Radar Map
